Design têxtil: a remodelagem do motivo Paisley na criação de xales para moda feminina

Abstract

Starting from the presupposition that man has always created objects aiming at stylizing its day by day and establishing, thus, its material culture, which is also composed, amongst other elements, by its textiles that besides recovering and protecting its body also work as social and cultural differentiators, the present research had the main purpose of remodeling the motif known as Paisley and from that creating shawls for feminine fashion appropriate to the current textile design market. There are several theories for the true origin and signification of the proposed motif, however, what is known is that it was brought from India by British soldiers when they returned from the east wars, during the Industrial Revolution, in the XIX century, and presented their wives with long wool clothes from Cachemira where such format was weaved. Ever since, the Paisley motif has been used in the ornamentation of the most varied surfaces, especially in the contemporanity, which favors multiple and several cultural appropriations and (re)visitations in design, in fashion and in the most varied visual productions, it appears in several ways and still with great acceptation. The creative process of this investigation, based on the intercrossing of the methodologies proposed by Mike Baxter (2000) – “Visual Dashboard” Tool – and by Luiz Vidal Negreiros Gomes (2001) – Steps to the Creative Process – has grounded the inventive path of the shawls collection which is separated, according to specific characteristics, in three distinct lines that are complemented to each other. The first one, based on mango (referential applied by the indigenous culture for creating the Paisley motif), constitutes the Paisley Mangífera summer line, the second one, based on pinecone (referential applied by the Scottish culture for creating the Paisley motif), constitutes the Paisley Araucaria winter line and the third one, named Paisley Origin, which have no specific use season and is based on the drawing resultant from the hybridization of both referential. Such research reached good results, presenting both a drawing for stamping and a collection of shawls highly differentiated in relation to those that are currently found.