Brechó virou moda? As estratégias publicitárias das marcas de moda de segunda mão

Abstract

This research focuses on general advertising and thrift stores, more specifically the analysis of advertising strategies used by thrift stores in southern Brazil. The following research problem was defined: What are the main advertising strategies used by thrift stores, considering economic, cultural, social and symbolic capital? And, to answer the question of this study, we list the following general objective: to identify the characteristics of the subfield of thrift stores, considering their relationships or approaches to the economic, cultural, social and symbolic capital proposed by Pierre Bourdieu. The specific objectives were configured as: Relating the fields of advertising and fashion; Map the characteristics of the thrift store subfield; Understand the relationship between thrift stores' advertising strategies and Capital (economic, symbolic, cultural and social); Reflect on the advertising strategy used in the subfield of thrift stores. The methodology used to achieve the objective is the cartography presented by Deleuze and Guattari (1995) and Kastrup (2007), mainly the attentional functioning phases Tracking, Landing, Touch and Attentive Recognition to which we associate our research stages, respectively: discussion theoretical; theoretical methodological discussion; data collection and data analysis. Theoretical discussions took place through Lipovetsky (1989), Bourdieu (2007 and 2013), Rocha (1985), Barnard (2003) and Bergamo (2007) and data collection through questionnaires applied online with thrift store owners from nine states in Brazil and also the analysis of Instagram profiles and national reference thrift store websites. As results, it is mainly pointed out that the relationship between advertising and fashion determines these as social devices that affect collective life and configure a marketing perspective for the subfield of thrift stores. As characteristics of the subfield of thrift stores, we can list that this is a recent concrete market enterprise, expanding and profitable when well managed. Regarding the relationship between advertising strategies and Bourdieu's capital, it can be concluded that economically they aim to save money and provide benefits for consumers. Cultural capital uses the references that celebrities bring with them and marketing movements such as “News every week” to give consumers the confidence to buy in a store that follows standards. When analyzed socially, the subfield of thrift stores is less expressive, not having as much engagement in groups, which seems to revolve around socially accepted prejudices about thrift stores, which characterize them as a place for old clothes and the dead. Regarding symbolic capital, we can point out that the association of thrift stores with recognized brands is the most used strategy, selling designer clothes for less is the biggest argument. Regarding the values used as sales strategies, I conclude that these are mainly marketing, where economic capital stands out. Furthermore, sustainability, despite being the starting point for the creation of thrift stores, is not the focus of this market, which does not focus its communication around it and when it does, it is in an isolated, thematic and modest way.