Asas de borboleta: organismos da natureza na criação de design têxtil para lingerie

Abstract

Aiming at to incorporate to the area of Design knowledge and experiences achieved in art and understanding that design and art dialogue and share of the need for creation in their processes, the present proposal, developed in the field of textile design, has searched for the knowledge of the language of surface design and its implications, emphasizing the process of creation in stamping over meshes specifically addressed to the feminine intimate clothes section – lingerie. Starting from the observation of organisms of the nature (three species of Brazilian Lepidoptera), the main purpose of this research was to develop designs for stamping addressed to the feminine intimate clothes section for the subsequent making of garments such as the corselet, the panty and the body. We have intended to reach a good esthetical and functional solution concerning the surface design by taking in to account its application, searching for expressive and innovative results relevant to the ambit of the intimate clothes, products that could have significance for the industry and also for feminine public. In this work, the creation of the surface designs was projected to be printed on synthetic meshes.The creative process of this investigation had its bases on different techniques and tools of project proposed by Bonsiepe (1986) where we could find the most coherent way to develop this project of stamping design and by Bonfim (1995) regarding the use of the Bionic as method of research anchored in the analogy with natural systems. As a result, a lingerie collection has been elaborated and separated in two lines, which were so designated: Chrysalis Line and Océllus Line. The first one proposes products that may bring a lighter and more delicate print, denoting thus, a romantic and subtle meaning to the lingerie. The second one shows a contrasting and outstanding printer in which the color has been thought with the intent of exploring the erotic aspect, being represented by strong and vibrant tonalities based on a vivid and spicy chromatic catalogue. Ocellus shows quite sensual looks with pieces that bring empty styles, brightness, transparencies and complementary accessories such as stockings and garter belt. Besides both lines, two conceptual pieces have been elaborated proposing by their construction and visual a color blend and differentiated form and treatment of the surface that might be used as referential for the conception of designs or textile treatments and/or for the production of pieces destined to the segment of lingerie to be translated to the commercial ambit. We consider that the present investigation has achieved good results showing eight and quite differentiated variations of designs for printer in relation to those currently found in the segment of intimate fashion.